Elbrus: ncomo. Elbrus kwabasaqalayo: ncomo

Uphuhliso lokhenketho kweli xesha lethu lifikelele kwinqanaba ukuba owalela de indawo abahambi kushiya isithuba kuphela, kwaye ke hayi ixesha elide.

Ukuba eminye iminyaka 15-20 eyadlulayo, iincopho owoyisayo ababekolo mdlalo egqithiseleyo, ngoku lisanyuka Elbrus (reviews abahambi abo basandula kuqalisa bathi ngayo) - oku yi hlobo kakhulu iivawutsha leeholide leyo zingathengwa kwi-arhente zokuhamba njengesiqhelo.

Elbrus

Kwavela ngasekupheleni yobudala Neogene ngexesha kwesiqalekiso kummango abaseAfrika, Elbrus mlilo yayinamandla kakhulu, ukuba iziphumo kuqhume yamandulo izazinzulu yayo namhlanje ukufumana amakhulu eekhilomitha kude kuyo.

Imisebenzi ye-mlilo bayeka kwiminyaka 2500 eyadlulayo, kodwa Elbrus, ihlola malunga amandla negunya ehleliyo kumabali zasekuhlaleni kunye namabali, ngenkulungwane ye-16 kubonisiwe kwiimephu eluhlobo ikhowuni komlilo.

Enye mlilo aphezulu extinct baqalisa unokuloyisa ihlabathi kwinkulungwane ye-19. uhambo Russian, eliquka izazinzulu kunye emkhosini, ngowe-1829, wazama ukuba ukoyisa Elbrus de ifikelele kubude 4.800 m, njengoko oko kungqinwa umbhalo ilitye kunye George Cross wazikrola kuyo. Kodwa ukuba ukufikelela ingqungquthela ayikwazanga kuphela isikhokelo sabo Kabardian, njengoko iguqulwe ngcono emoyeni entabeni rarefied.

Ubungqina kokoyiswa yeNtaba Elbrus waba imbasa nezikhumbuzo, eyayibhalwe lo mcimbi, kodwa ukuba kokoyiswa zincopho intaba elikhokelwa ezimbini-ukuba baye bayeka. Ngowe-1874, mountaineers IsiNgesi wathobela kwincopho yasentshona. Zombini ezi ntaba, kunye isicelo ngqo isimo se entabeni kwimaphu, wafunda topographer Russian Pastukhov, ngubani igama lakhe imbeko yengxondorha kwi 4700 eemitha.

Ukususela ngoko, izixhobo benyuka waye waphucuka kwaye landa inani labo ndiloyisile entabeni. Elbrus (reviews climbers ze bathethe kwinkulungwane yama-20 yale) yaba uvavanyo ngokwenene amandla, unyamezelo kunye nokuzeyisa. Namhlanje, lo mlilo extinct uvuke zonke babakhenkethi ngaphandle uqeqesho kakhulu. Kufuneka kukhunjulwe ukuba Elbrus uthatha inqwaba ubomi abo akholosileyo okanye ngaphezulu bazithembe ngonyaka.

Emozulu Elbrus

Imozulu Elbrus sifana ngakumbi Arctic, njengoko iqondo lobushushu enyangeni ishushu apha kufika kumgomo we-8 Celsius, kwaye kwiimeko ezininzi kakhulu imozulu Februwari.

Rhoqo lipholile nezininzi notshintsho kwimozulu, wadala entabeni uzuko "owalathisa umoya," njengoko liguqulelwe Nogay dialect kwisihloko Elbrus.

Climbers 19 neyama-20 kwafuneka ukuba bathembele ithamsanqa, ehamba kunyuka. Namhlanje, izixhobo zemozulu mihla ikuvumela ukuba ukwazi kwangaphambili xa ungaya yokoyisa Elbrus. Izimvo climbers abaninzi bathi ulwazi ngemozulu kwangaphambili ngokufuthi usindisa ubomi.

Ukuze kube lula climbers kwi eziphakamileyo ezahlukeneyo kwentaba elisekwe kwisiseko transshipment, injongo ephambili apho kusebenza njengendawo yokuhlala kwimozulu embi, kunye nokukwazi ukuba kudlule acclimatize phambi lisanyuka. Le yokugqibela umele, kuba Elbrus ngokungqongqo libhekisela kwabo shiya ukhuseleko.

Kuxhomekeka ojonge ukunyuka luqala, kuxhomekeke ukuba elintsonkothe.

Elbrus - ummandla kubakhenkethi

Ukunyukela Elbrus (nophononongo umhla le amaninzi) waba uhlobo lokuzonwabisa ukhenketho esanda. Uphuhliso lwezibonelelo kwi ngohlobo imoto USB, iihotele kunye neziseko transshipment kwakhokelela ekubeni apha abada abakhenkethi ezivela ehlabathini lonke.

Umzekelo, Mount Cheget (3650m) na indawo ski kunye emthondweni kakhulu umngeni ehlabathini. Bonke abanqwenela ukuba bayeke entabeni mngeni, eze apha ukuvavanya amandla abo. Xa ixesha xa snowboarders nekofu Elbrus Ski (reviews bathi oku November), ukuba iilifti-4 no-3 iimoto USB, le migca ayibalwa ngokwaneleyo ukunikezelwa fast zonke ukubenza kuloo ndawo. Enkosi kubo, abaqubhi Ungaqala ekuhleni ukusuka kubude ka 3070 m ngaphezu komphakamo wolwandle, nto leyo lula kwabasaqalayo kwakunye nokunyuka kade kunye nokwehla ngokukhawuleza zingachaphazela impilo jikelele ngokohlobo nesiyezi kunye isicaphucaphu.

uyakhululeka phakathi Amathambeka sizuze amandla, incasa thandwayo efumaneka neehotele ezikufuphi cafes. Kananjalo apha ungenza bafumane isiqalo intloko kwi Elbrus. Ukuphonononga climbers bathi bekwilift kunye nokucandwa Azu, ukuba Cheget Glade ifikeleleka ngendlea ibhasi okanye ngeenyawo (6 km) apho, kunciphisa kakhulu ixesha ukuze umntu anyuke intaba.

Base ngenxa kokuhamba entabeni ngokwayo ayifanelekanga ukuba isetyenziselwe leengalo ezo elide. injongo yazo - ukunika abantu ithuba lokuba ukuya zona, ukwenza i uphuculo ukusuka kuluhlu enye kwenye, ukuba kube lula ukuhambisa enyukayo Elbrus. Ukuphonononga bathi kukho ubuncinane iimeko ezaneleyo ukuze sizuze amandla.

Elbrus kwabasaqalayo

Development of ezokhenketho ezintabeni azidalileyo inani entsha amakhono, enye yazo i uhambo sikhokelo wobugcisa, okanye njengoko batshovo oludala ngemihla, umqhubi.

Eku sunguleni, umqhubi sanyanzeleka ukuba bamnikele abahambi ukuya kuyo. Elbrus kwabasaqalayo (ingakumbi wabaqalayo ncomo abonisa ukubaluleka kwale), "wazisa" isizukulwana esitsha iingcali emsebenzi wayo uphambili nje kuphela ukuxhasa kodwa uqeqesho climbers ongenamava.

Njengomgaqo, climbers abanamava ukunika iingcebiso wabaqalayo, ngubani ingafunyanwa kwi Internet, Kulungile, ngubani ofunda nabo? Abakhenkethi badla ngokungazi ukuba, xa uhambo umqhubi wenza ebukekayo woyibingelela ngohlobo inqoba ntaba, saso saye simhlophe ngezandla phantsi encotsheni yentaba, wangena. Enyanisweni, i-arhente wathengisa uhambo, ngokupheleleyo cwaka, ufumana kokwenyuka client okanye hayi. Bathe ke bona abanye, njengoko bathi, kuba guides zobugcisa.

Elbrus kwabasaqalayo (liphendla zonke "Dummies" ukuqinisekisa kuyo) iqala ekhaya:

• Okokuqala, kufuneka uqeqesho ethile emzimbeni ukuya emilenzeni umthwalo neze ubuncinane ungahambisa ngesantya ekunene. Kwanele ukuba kwiiveki 3-4 phambi kokuba yokuhamba ukunyusa uxinzelelo ezinyaweni zakho njengoko a elula encinane, ukubaleka, behamba behla benyuka ngezinyuko. Makhe imisipha otbolyat ekhaya, ngoko kuya kuba lula ukoyisa Elbrus. Uhlaziya abatsha oko baye umthwalo ngokugqithiseleyo, leyo Bayiphanga yonke uvuyo zokugwencela, ivamile kwi Internet.
• Okwesibini, kuthatha isinxibo elungileyo. Bekumnandi kwaye imali eninzi. Ixabiso kulo mzekelo akusoloko esemgangathweni. kungaba kuqashwe Ezinye izinto kwisiza, kodwa izihlangu kufuneka kwenziwe kuphela ekhululekile yaye worn-.
• Okwesithathu, kubalulekile ukuba siqaphele ubume zabo zempilo phambi kokuba phezulu ezintabeni. Ukuba umntu akanayo kudlula zokungaqheli ngenxa yeengxaki kunye noxinzelelo lwegazi okanye, ngasizathu sithile, kungcono ukuba ukoyisa iincopho aphezulu ngaphantsi kwe Elbrus. Ukuphumla (reviews ngayo yaye) ngenye yezi ndlela uya kuba umdla, kodwa ekhuselekileyo.
• Okwesine, uhleli undiva isikhokelo yakho. Yena a ebona yobungcali, ngoko icebiso lakhe kunye imiyalelo azixoxwa.

Ungumsebenzi Kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuba xa uthenga a tour Elbrus, yena uhlawula kuphela ukuzama, apho japan kukuwuphi na umcimbi, ukuze, eza kuhambela kwelinye, kufuneka uthathe kunye intywenka. Abo baqhele kuphumla ngayo intuthuzelo, hayi uhambo efanelekileyo Elbrus. Ukuphonononga malunga ubunzima ukwenyuka yomzimba iqinisekisiwe.

Ekunyukeni ukusuka entshonalanga

Kweli kwentaba linokufikeleleka ezivela kwiindawo ezahlukeneyo zehlabathi, kodwa ayizizo zonke ezifanelekileyo kwabasaqalayo. Umzekelo, ekunyukeni ukusuka entshonalanga okufanelekileyo kuphela climbers a lot of ngamava, ngokuba apha umendo iyabhlokwa yi zomkhenkce enamandla, namawa, efuna banekhono elikhulu kokwenyuka nzima.

Le kubonelele ngendawo ukwakweli ecaleni lasentshonalanga kwi evulekile kwintaba ephakame 2670 m (uGil-Su). Imfuneko imini zokungaqheli, leyo kwenziwa ukusetyenziswa ngokundwendwela kwimithombo zonyango.

Inqanaba elilandelayo - ekhwela kwinkampu elandelayo (3500 m) kunye yinxalenye yezinto, ukuze ufumane kwisigaba entsha zokungaqheli. Ngosuku olulandelayo, kunokwenzeka ukuba kuthuthwe ezinye izinto. Le kwenkampu ibekwe phezu glacier №2 Bityukov Tyubyu (gquma wayo). Kweli nqanaba, ithinjiwe iKiriyatayim ukuphakama eliphakathi ka-3900 m, apho ushiye izixhobo.

Nowesithathu nkampu -. Lisendaweni 4200 m apho inkcitho ngomhla komgaqo phambi kokuthumela yokugqibela kwesiseko ngongoma. imini zokungaqheli Extra kunceda umntu ongenamava ukuba aphinde amandla uze ukuze hypoxia.

Isiseko sesine - kwintaba ephakame 4600 m, emva koko kukho nokonyuka Elbrus. Intaba (reviews climbers bathi) ungaphantsi kungenakugqithwa, ngoxa umsebenzi wolungiselelo wenziwa kakuhle.

Le yanyukela ngokwaso ingeyongozi, nangona ikhephu kwithambeka athile ethambekeni. Ukuba umzimba njengoko liye lakwazi ukuzivumelanisa ioksijini rarefied, akayi kuba nzima yaye yingozi umendo imozulu elungileyo.

Benyuka bevela empumalanga

On elicala ndinokulunyuka encotsheni yasempuma zeentaba, Ukuba umphakamo of 5621 m apho Kufuneka ubeke phezu kwabo ukwenzela eminqubeni xa ebona -. A abasaqalayo, uya kudinga i abanolwazi salathiso, njengoko oku cala lentaba akaboneleli bekhululekile abaphilayo iimeko.

Le nkampu lokuqala yokulungisa kunye ukuhlala ubusuku ibekwe ezinobude yeemitha 2.400 zilandelayo ukunyuka ukuya "ukumba" -. Ukuwisa Irik-Chat (3667 m), kufuphi apho iintente yitela. Glacier waqhuba ukuzilolonga, waza wenza ukunyuka ukuya kwinqanaba elilandelayo - 4,000 yeemitha - waza wabeka intente ebusuku.

inkampu Uhlaselo esekelwe ezinobude 4,500 m. Emva baphumle apha wenziwe uqeqesho kunye novavanyo ukoyisa ephakame ka 5000 m. Emva ixesha lohlengahlengiso liphuma iqala phezulu, elandelwa ekuhleni kwi siseko.

Oku mhlawumbi icala ezininzi 'eziyingozi kakhulu' ze Elbrus.

Ekunyukeni ukusuka ezantsi

Le ndlela lasemzantsi ithandwa kakhulu neenkampani abakhenkethi kwaye uninzi baxhotyiselwe ukuze kuhlaliswe kubo bonke. Nganeno uyakwazi nokuba koyisa Elbrus ebusika. Ingxelo evela kwabo benza oko, bathi kuthatha amandla ephawulekayo emzimbeni kunye nokuzimisela ukuxhathisa amaqondo phantsi degrees -45 kunye nomoya ezilumayo.

zokungaqheli yokuqala ikhutshwa phandle kwintaba ephakame 2200 m kwindawo kwinkampu "Azu". Ukusuka apha kakuhle ukuya isiseko elilandelayo emotweni USB, esiphela nomphakamo 2950 m kwisikhululo elundini Old.

Reseeding omnye umgca yendlela, unako ukuyoyisa kwinqanaba elilandelayo yokulungisa - "Mir" kwisitishi (3500 m). Kwabasaqalayo kuyacetyiswa ukuba bangxame ugqithe acclimatize ngokuthe ngcembe, enika ngamnye umphakamo ubuncinane ngosuku.

Ukusuka "Ihlabathi" yi isitulo "Ichibi 'ukuba uzifihle" imiphanda "kwisitishi (3750 m). Yaba kule nkampu udlula lithathelwe esisiseko. Ukuba ihambe ukhenketho package, ishedyuli kokunyuka:

• Ngosuku lokuqala kwi "imiphanda" njengesiqhelo hamba, ukuhlola loo mmandla nakubo bonke abanye.
• Ngosuku lwesibini - lokuya kwi "yokhuseleko 11" kwi ukuphakama 4050 m unyuko kwi-engile degrees-10, aze kuthatha malunga neeyure ezi-2, njengokuba ukukhanya kufuneka ngokuthe ngcembe ukuqhelana indawo .. Selesondele ekuhleni lwenziwa kangangemizuzu engama-20.
• Ngosuku lwesithathu - enyukayo Pastukhov Rocks (4600), xa mvume zempilo kunye nemozulu. Le unyuko kade, iiyure 3-4, kufuphi emaweni - kuma yeti, uze kuhla kangangeeyure 1.5-2.
• Iintsuku 1-2 ezayo - mhlawumbi ukwenyuka okanye zokungaqheli olongezelelweyo. Imveliso idla 2-3 iiyure yasebusuku phantsi ukukhanya enezikhanyiso, ukuzama ukuhlangabezana ilanga ngaphezulu.

Emozulu Elbrus na ziyatshintsheka, ngoko ke kufuneka uzilungiselele kwangaphambili, nto leyo yee-ndlela, kusenokufuneka ukuba babuye umva. Ezintabeni anixoleli ukungakhathali.

Ekunyukeni evela entla

Conquest of Elbrus yaqala xa sele kwicala elingasentla kuyo. Ngokungafaniyo ukhululekile icala langasezantsi, kunye iihotele zayo, asuse ski, akukho yonke indlela kufuneka uhambe wedwa. isiseko lokuqala zokungaqheli ingqalelo njengephempe "Oleynikov" yaye "Roshchina" okanye "Camp Lakkolit".

Ukuziqhelanisa luqala kunyuka nasemaweni Lenz (4700 m), apha ukuqeqesha. Enyukayo luqala emva kokuba zokungaqheli epheleleyo, ukuphumla nendawo yokulala. sites esiPhakathi phezulu akukho ngakumbi. Ukusuka emantla rhoqo bavuka ukuya ngasempuma, incopho ezincinane, njengoko lisondele. Guide onamava kukhokelela iqela encotsheni entshona, nangona kulula ukwenza kunye kwithambeka elingasemzantsi.

Kuba abo bamthandayo imidlalo eyingozi, ngexesha Ukuskiya kunye ndiqubhe Elbrus ivula ngoNovemba. Izimvo ezi ekwehleni kakhulu banconywe. Imozulu ngeli xesha linovuyo ngokubanzi ziyihlanganyele elithatha kwaye nekhephu sele iwile.

Kunjalo nje kufunyanwa enjengokugwencela ngaphezulu abakhenkethi kunye abaqubhi esihla. Elbrus kwakhona ukhuphiswano ukuba ukunyuka fastest ukuya phezulu. Champion of Kazakhstan yayo isalathi 3 h 55 imiz. siganga Azau (2400 m) ukuya ngasentshona summit (5642 m) de baqweqwediswa nabani na. Ukuze ufunde ukoyisa entabeni, kuthabatha iminyaka yoqeqesho kunye nolwazi ngemithetho yokhuseleko.

mithetho yokuphepha

Xa abantu beze Elbrus njengoko abakhenkethi, kufuneka iqondwe ngokucacileyo ukuba oyintloko ngumntu lowo amava yanyukela phezulu, ngoko ke ukungeniswa osingathe ukhuseleko kufuneka olomeleleyo.

Ngaphambi kokuba bahambe, nkqu zokungaqheli kunyanzelekile:

• Hlola izixhobo. Kufuneka yinombolo, ukhuseleko owomileyo kunye nokuqinisekisa. Qiniseka ukuba kufuneka cream ubuso kunye lip namafutha, kwakunye imaski okanye iindondo ezimnyama.
• Khangela indlela, ngokujonga ixesha, unxibelelwano kunye noncedo lokuqala iikiti.
• Qiniseka ukuba kufuneka ube thermos neti eshushu nesidlo esilula - zonka, imivalo iilekese okanye iziqhamo.

Amaholo ke amalungu eqela, abangabhalisanga kwi-Ofisi yoMphathiswa Iimeko zikaxakeka of Russia avunyelwe. Oku kubangwa yimfuneko ukuba ukwazi ukuqhuba umsebenzi wabo yokukhangela nokuhlangula, ukuba eli qela akakabuyi.

New Elbrus

Elbrus kuza Unyaka Omtsha (oku umjikelo kakhulu akhutheleyo reviews) - oku kuthetha ukuba ukudibanisa intlanganiso best iholide yonyaka kunye ukukwazi ukoyisa ngqungquthela.

Inkqubo Uhambo New Year akuthethi uphumle, kuba ifuna zombini zokungaqheli ngcembe, kwaye nexesha phakathi izakhono ukuba ahambe kunye "iikati" kunye nezibonda ehla. Indima ebalulekileyo edlalwa uqeqesho olufanelekileyo nokupakishwa ubhaka, ekubeni ephezulu ukunyuka, nzima iya kubonakala.

Kukwasebenza kwanjalo kuyo ukusetyenziswa kwe ice ngezembe, knotting nokuhamba ngaxeshanye. badla Kuyenzeka ukuba abantu bake zabanjwa kunye nendawo enyukayo ukuya encotsheni yentaba, baba ngabahlobo ubomi. Abaqeqeshi enzima kakhulu malunga yokulungiselela qela, kuba ebusika Elbrus nga wakubuza imozulu, icing kunye nemimoya.

Iimvavanyo ezaqhutywa izakhono ice-inshorensi kunye yokumisa isilayidi, njengeqela, okanye ngokuzimeleyo. Ukuziqhelanisa nokuveliswa nezakhono ezifunekayo kuthatha iintsuku 5-6. Uthenga itikiti ukuya entabeni, iya kuthakazelelwa into yokuba isixa ubuncinane bexesha efunekayo eqhineni - iintsuku 8-10. Ukoyisa iNtaba Elbrus akukho ezithathwa veki. Akukho mntu ubaphayo isiqinisekiso sokuba ukuchacha iya kuba onke imozulu kule ngingqi ke akucingeleki kakhulu.

Kodwa xa uphulaphula ukuba ngumhlohli, ukwenza zonke zezincomo zayo, ukuze bangenele "ebona" abaselula nethamsanqa, uhambo lo Unyaka Omtsha iya kuba adventure esimnandi kakhulu kwaye emangalisayo ebomini.