Ebona American Scott Fischer, oyisa uyincopho Lhotse: biography

Scott Fisher - ebona, wazibonakalisa sele-20 eminyaka ubudala ukuba yobungcali eyinyaniso eloyisile ntaba yentaba. Kodwa uninzi kwakusazeka ukuba yintlekele Everest ngo-1996, xa emini wabulala abantu 8 kuloo matutu ezintathu, kuquka Fischer ngokwakhe.

Qala emsusa iintaba

Njengoko umntwana siya Ndinephupha msebenzi kakhulu yobuqhawe. Ngusomajukujuku, kokulwa, lifeguard, umqhubi, umthetheli - ukuba udibene na umngcipheko elithile, ngoko ke khangela romantic kangaka emehlweni yomntwana. Scott Fischer-14 Ekwazi oko bekuya kuba ebona intaba. Kwiminyaka emibini emva koko wathatha izifundo ukwenyuka amatye. Emva koko ke waphumelela kwisikolo esiphakamileyo kunye nezikhokelo uye waba ngomnye abaqeqeshi kakhulu yobungcali kwi iintaba. Ngexesha lezi iminyaka ngenkuthalo wayenza kokoyisa eentaba.

Ngowe-1982, kunye nomfazi wakhe uJean, wafudukela Seattle. Apha abantwana bazalwa Fischer, Andy Keti Rouz.

ngokoyisa Lhotse

Scott Fischer, iqondo eliphezulu ebona, yaba American ephakame ebona yokuqala, uboyisa uyincopho Lhotse, ukuphakama sesine esikhulu.

"Phezulu Southern" (njengoko eightthousanders evakalayo) ise malayas, emdeni China kunye Nepal. Yahlulahlulwe yaba amanqaku amathathu. Namhlanje bababeka iindlela eziliqela, kodwa ekoyiswa Lhotse inzima kakhulu. Gqithisela udonga South ithathwa ukuba kunzima. Yenza oku umyalelo kuphela climbers yiSoviet ngo-1990. abantu Seventeen besebenza ngobunye ukuze ekhwela encotsheni ayikwazanga ezimbini kuphela kubo.

"Intaba Madness"

Ehlokomayo izama, Scott Fischer 1984 wavula inkampani yakhe ukuba zikhenkethe eziphakamileyo-ukuphakama. Ekuqaleni umsebenzi umdla kangako climbers - central ebomini bakhe lisanyuka. Le nkampani wamnceda enze into ayithandayo. Kangangexesha elide, "Mountain Uyageza" yaba inkampani umdla engaziwa. Konke oko kwatshintsha kwi 90, xa kuloyiso Everest elo iphupha ethandwa abakhenkethi zesiqhelo. Abanamava climbers esiluhlaza baba Izikhokelo ehamba ukulungele ekhwela encotsheni imali. Inkqubo kushishino Everest. Kukho iinkampani, kuba isixa ngeenxa wathembisa ukuba aququzelele caca ukuya phezulu. Bathabatha phezu ilungu unikezelo hambo kwinkampu lesakhelo, belungiselela nxaxheba malunga nendawo enyukayo kunye nenkxaso ecaleni kwendlela. Ukuze ithuba lokuba ngomnye boyisa ka Everest onqwenela ezithiwe thaca babekhupha iinkuntyula - ukususela-50 ukuya kuma-65 amawaka eerandi. Ngelo xesha nabaququzeleli matutu abazange ukuqinisekisa impumelelo - entabeni ayikwazanga anikezele.

uhambo Scott Fischer ukuba Mount Everest. Izizathu mbutho yayo

Impumelelo zobuntlola ezorhwebo kwezinye climbers, kuquka uRob Hall, kwanyanzeleka Fisher ukuba bacinge malunga nendlela malayas. Njengokuba umphathi kamva kuKaren Dickinson, eso sigqibo masikhokelwe ixesha. abathengi abaninzi bafuna ukuya kwinqanaba eliphezulu ehlabathini. Scott Fischer, Mount Everest apho kwakungekho ndlela zinzima, ngelo xesha ndacinga nzulu malunga nendlela lixesha ukutshintsha ubomi. Hambo ukuya malayas ingasivumela ukuba izimvo zabo kwaye ubonise oko unako kwinkampani yakhe. Ukuba uphumelele, akwazi ukubala abathengi abatsha, uvumele wena ukuba kuyekelela izityhwentywe zemali ngenxa ithuba ekhwela encotsheni yentaba Everest.

Xa kuthelekiswa nezinye climbers, abamagama angabhalwanga bayinzala amaphepha iimagazini, wayengaziwa ngokunjalo. Bambalwa abantu abamazi Scott Fisher. Everest wamnika ithuba lokuba malivakale kwimpumelelo hambo "Mountain Madness". Esinye isizathu sokuba owenza ebona ukuba ukuya kule hambo, iinzame ukulungisa umfanekiso walo. Kwafuneka bakujonge kwindawo ephezulu nesibindi ngokungakhathali. Uninzi abathengi abazizityebi isimbo sakhe yingozi ebebengathanda ngayo. Le umkhankaso yaba Sandy Hill Pittman, intatheli ngenxa phephandaba. Ingxelo lwakhe phezu kwegumbi bekuya kuba wentengiso omkhulu Scott Fisher kunye nenkampani yakhe.

Iziganeko 1996 on Mount Everest

Malunga nentlekele malayas, saxoxa lukhulu. Ubalo lweziganeko zihlanganiswe amazwi kusinda zobuntlola emithathu amangqina. 1996 waba ngomnye kakhulu buhlungu boyisa ka Everest - 15 kubo akazange abuyele ekhaya. abantu abasibhozo ababulewe ngosuku olunye: Rob Hall noScott Fischer, iinkokeli uhambo, amalungu amathathu kumaqela abo kunye climbers ezintathu ukusuka Indo-Tibetan Border Service.

Iingxaki waqala eqhineni ekuqaleni. Sherpas (bendawo-abaqhubi) akazange ukuphatha ukuseka zonke neentsimbi, apho zithe kakhulu phantsi isenzo. Emva kokuba bethintelwe kunye nabakhenkethi ezininzi, namhla kwakhona reshivshiesya kwisamithi umzamo. Ngenxa yoko weshedyuli olungqongqo lweenkqubo nemigaqo ye ekuzameni elaphulwayo. Abo uyazi indlela ekubaluleke ngayo ukuba babuye emva kwexesha, emva enkampini yaye waqhubeka ephila. Abanye aqhubeka nokukhula.

Rob Hall and Skott Fisher kude emva akolu gqatso. Le yokugqibela waba ezikwimeko engafanelekanga ngokwenkangeleko phambi kokuqalisa hambo, ke enguye ngokufihlakeleyo oku kwabanye. ndidiniwe wakhe waqaphela ngexesha ukwenyuka, nto leyo kakhulu engaqhelekanga ebona ngamandla kunye esebenzayo.

Ngentsimbi yesine emva kwemini zifika phezulu, nangona ishedyuli sele iiyure ezimbini kwakufanele iqale ukwehla. Ngeli xesha, isigqubuthelo ukukhanya layigubungela intaba yaba Blizzard. Scott Fisher wehla kunye Sherpa Lopsangom. Kuyabonakala ukuba, ngeli xesha imeko yakhe yayisiba ngokukhawuleza. Kuthathwa ukuba ebona waqalisa iindumbisa ingqondo kunye nemiphunga, yaye kwakukho nqanaba olomeleleyo komzimba. Wamcenga Sherpa uhle uye enkampini kwaye ufumane uncedo.

Anatoly Boukreev, esi sikhokelo "Mountain Uyageza" kule mini wasindisa ngabakhenkethi ezintathu ukuthatha yedwa kwabo enkampini. Wazama kabini ukuba banyukele Fischer ukuba ukufunda wabuyela Sherpa ebona kurhulumente, kodwa zero ukubonakala womelele imimoya abazange bamvumele ukuba ukuya yintloko qela.

Morning Sherpas wafika Fisher, kodwa imeko yakhe sele embi kangangokuba Sithathe isigqibo kunzima ukuba ushiye oko kuyo, ukhululeke. Xa kweminquba behla Makalu jae, ogama urhulumente uvumelekile ukuba enze njalo. Kungekudala emva koko, phambi Fischer kuzo kwaye Boukreev, kodwa ebona kunyaka-40 ubudala ndafelwa ngexesha ingxinano.

Izinto ezibangela le ntlekele kunye Fischer kunye namanye amaqela lisanyuka

Iintaba - enye yeendawo eziyingozi kakhulu kwiplanethi yethu. Asibhozo amawaka ubude - ukuphakama apho umzimba womntu awuzukuphila. Yi ntlekele embi kungabangela nasiphi na isizathu, eyona ingabalulekanga. Loo mini on Mount Everest climbers catastrophically nelishwa. They are emva evela kwishedyuli ngokungqongqo ngenxa yenani elikhulu labatyeleli abaye Wabonakala ngexesha enye indlela. A ixesha xa kwafuneka ukuba babuye umva, ukuba ayikho. Abo baye encotsheni emva zonke, endleleni emva baba ikhephu womelele kwaye ayikwazanga ukufumana amandla ukuba aye emkhosini.

Vula engcwabeni Everest

Scott Fisher, umzimba wakhe wafunyanwa frozen Anatoly Boukreev May 11, 1996, wasala kwisiza ukufa kwakhe. Ezantsi kubude kwamaxhoba nzima. Emva konyaka, kwakhona babuyele Nepal, Anatoly Boukreev bahlawule imbeko yabo yokugqibela ukuba umhlobo wakhe, lowo ke wakunonelela njengengxenye engcono ephakamileyo ephakame ebona Melika. umzimba Fisher amatye Wayaleka kwaye uwuyeke zokwexeshana ingcwaba ice pick yakhe.

Scott Fisher, ogama umzimba kunye imizimba angaboyisi eziliqela ofileyo Everest wangcwatywa kwi ndawo ukufa, usenokukhululwa ukuya elunyaweni ngo-2010. Emva koko kwagqitywa kangangoko kunokwenzeka ukucima kumathambeka entabeni elaye kule minyaka inkunkuma yaye uzame ekutsaleni umzimba ufile. Umhlolokazi Rob Hall USisera ingcamango, kunye nomfazi wakhe Fishera Dzhinni wayenethemba lokuba umzimba umyeni wakhe uya kwesidumbu emazantsi ebembulele entabeni kuye. Kodwa Sherpas bakwazi ukufumana kwaye khupha iintsalela zezinye climbers ezimbini. Scott Fisher and Rob Hall iku Everest.

Nokubengezela ntlekele Everest ngoncwadi kanye cinema

Abathathi-nxaxheba ngesiganeko, nentatheli Yon Krakauer, Anatoly Boukreev ebona Beck Weathers kunye Gammelgaard Lin wabhala incwadi apho echaza umbono wakhe.

Cinema ayikwazanga ube likheswa ukusuka imixholo ezithembisayo ezinjengezo le ntlekele on Mount Everest ngo-1996. Ngowe-1997, uJohn Krakaeura inoveli Yenziwa kwimovie. Wabumba isiseko ifilimu "Ukufa Everest."

Ngowe-2015, ohluza ngaphandle umfanekiso "Everest". Intloko hambo "Mountain Uyageza" edlalwa Dzheyk Dzhillenhol. Scott Fisher ukubonakala wakhangela kancinane ngokwahlukileyo (yaba mhlophe), kodwa umdlali ngokupheleleyo ukwazi ukudlulisela amandla charisma obubonakala ebona. Rob Hall wadlala Dzheyson Klark. Kulo mfanekiso uyakwazi ukubona Kiru Naytli, Robin Rayt kunye noSam Worthington.

Dzheyk Dzhillenhol (Scott Fisher kwi film "Everest") bobabo kudidi abadlali bawo zezakhono ukhula phambi yabaphulaphuli. Kule minyaka mibini idlulileyo wakwazi ukukholisa abalandeli umdlalo enkulu kwi "stringer" Imizobo kunye "Lefty". Nentlekele "Everest" Akukho ngaphandle. Lo mboniso bhanya-ifumene amanqaku aphezulu ababukeli nabagxeki. Basabela kakuhle ngayo kunye climbers, besithi nje iimpazamo ezimbalwa engephi umboniso zokuziphatha kwabantu kweemeko oksijini yindlala.

Ngaba kuluncedo ubomi bomntu iphupha?

Umnqweno ukuba abe kwindawo liphezulu ehlabathini kuyaqondakala. Kodwa Scott Fisher kunye Rob Hall, iingcali-kwinqanaba eliphezulu, wabonisa ubuthathaka yaye bazinikele amabhongo abantu abancedwayo. A ntaba ke akayi kunixolela iziphoso.