Kabini-breast ibhatyi: ukusuka kudala ukuya modernity

A uhlobo enemikhono yebhatyi kwafunyanwa sele iibhokisi yentsimbi besive yeBronzi Age. Kule siyakwazi ukubona ukuba namhlanje zithandwa kangaka, amadoda kunye nabafazi, uye kwaziwa ukususela kumaxesha amandulo. imifuziselo iidyasi okwangoku zisukela overcoats ezingenamikhono ekukhanyeni efana yesikhumba isikrweqe ukuya iibhatyi kunye iibhatyi zasehlotyeni, ezo amaxesha kunzima ukwahlula ukusuka iimpahla.

ibhatyi breast olunye-okanye kabini-breast amadoda ezimfutshane kuqala wavela eNgilani ngenkulungwane ye-19 ngasekupheleni yaye yaziwa ngokuba "engxoweni". Nangona kunjalo, le yinxalenye yaba iingubo ezihlangwini, bahlangana sele ngexesha Gothic; yena ibhatyi tight-gingci, elathi landiswa yaye wawandisa kwixesha Renaissance, ukuba Spain wakhe nako ukumelana nakubungqongqo wamaJesuit Counter-uHlaziyo. Ibhatyi kwakhona uba simahla kwithuba ezimbejembeje. Yaye kwisiqingatha sesibini kwenkulungwane ye-17, liqulunqe izinto ezisisiseko ezintathu ezenza up ngubo umntu zanamhlanje - olunye-breast okanye kabini-breast ibhatyi, ingubo yangaphantsi, bhulukhwe.

Phantsi Louis 14 ibhatyi ebizwa zhyusokor (tsh. "Ecaleni umzimba") okanye camisole. Yena waba edolweni-ubude, ilaphu ezisetyenziselwa ukuthunga ibinzima, ngokobutyebi nezimfakamfele, kwipokotho ingubo yakhe enkulu, imikhono ububanzi inani elikhulu amaqhosha.

Ziziphi ezinye iibhatyi na apho?

De mzuzu, xa iidyasi yesiqhelo kabini-breast, baye ngokwemigaqo iintlobo utshintsho cut. Ngokomzekelo, kwakukho mfutshane ibhatyi zamadoda ngaphandle umgangatho - katsafireki.

Xa xesha Biedermeier yaba taid ethandwayo (ilaphu) - zifakwa kancinane okanye ngqo, wavala nge ibhatyi ukuba shilsya of a laphu ukukhanya yoboya. Taid ixesha elide ukuze ligcine indawo elikuyo njengenxalenye yenkqubo-ngubo eyindoda.

An element sele ithunyelwe izinxibo zesizwe, ngathi kamizola - ibhatyi ukukhanya enemikhono elifutshane okanye elide.

Sonke Sive igama njenge "Cossack". Kukho bebesenjenjalo ngokuba ibhatyi kunye nobudala elide, kodwa ke akunjalo. Phantsi eli gama sidibanisa iintlobo ezahlukeneyo eengubo ngamaxesha ahlukeneyo. Ngoko ke, casague yaba impahla awayedla Musketeers, waba enemikhono sijinga evulekileyo, ambalekayo-16 ukuya kwele-19 njengoko outerwear umkhosi. Ngenkulungwane ye-19, i-Cossack owayebizwa ngokuba impahla afakelwe ukuba crinoline kancinane. Yaye ngenkulungwane ye-18 emva kwexesha, izikethi elide kwiblawuzi ezihonjiswe amaqhosha kwaye qhina, waba ungumthombo iimpahla ezintle zohambo ikhwele.

IINDLELA (doublet) ekuqaleni ibhatyi ngomkhala yomqhaphu lining ngokweemeko phantsi iintonga ngamaXesha Aphakathi. Yaye le-15 ukuya IINDLELA kwinkulungwane ye-17 ebizwa iimpahla zokunxiba phantsi ingubo eliphezulu - isoloko wenza enemikhono zagutyungelwa kuphela indawo yayo ephezulu lomzimba. Emva kwenkulungwane ye-18, kwafakwa ngokupheleleyo ibhatyi, leyo inkulu kunxitywe phantsi ibhatyi kabini-breast namhlanje.

Kwinkulungwane 14-16 waba yesinxibo amadoda ethandwayo elifutshane kaThixo - ibhatyi. Ekuqaleni oko kwakuthetha njengento zinganxitywa phezu IINDLELA. Le ibhatyi waba ingxowa-imikhono umhombiso ngohlobo limsi. Yaye ngenkulungwane ye-16, eli ibhatyi wasukuma uhlobo sengubo elifutshane pleats ngasemva kunye neckline ezingena, imikhono iingqameko kunene.

Yintoni na - ibhatyi kabini-breast?

ibhatyi kabini-breast - yinto ongenabuyambo mihla kumxholo. Yohluka ukusuka ngasentla ukuba sele imigangatho ezimbini ububanzi macala leyo uzifake zombini ukuya kwenye kunye kwelinye icala. Ukwenza oku entsimini nganye eziliqela ngambini okanye ezine amaqhosha. Namhlanje, njengoko umthetho, enye yezi ngcelele zokuhombisa ngokwendalo, ngenxa yokuba into amaqhosha ibhatyi kwicala elinye kuphela: le ndlela iye eyongezelelweyo an iqhosha imfihlelo - jigger, nto leyo exhasa kumgangatho wesibini kwaye akavumeli ancedisana unokukhawuleza kwemfuneko.

Ukongeza kule version zakudala, kukho kwakhona ukuba mihla - umzekelo, nje. Le style ikuvumela ukuba yakubambelela iqhosha ngezantsi kwi inxalenye isandla sokunene.