Umbhali wamazwe Heinrich Harrer: engobomi, umsebenzi, le ncwadi intle, yaye umdla izibakala

ubomi bakhe kwaye iincwadi zakhe ezininzi ezihloliweyo ngokwembono ubulungu yamaNazi, esenza isigqibo injongo amandla akhe, lwezemidlalo esikolweni. Heinrich Harrer wayesoloko lithathwa ukuhlala yakhe intlangano yeengcinga zomkhosi zwilakhe njengento ngokuzenzekelayo kwaye abazi ngokupheleleyo, nangona wazama ukuba ukubonisa kuyo. Ukuba ngaba uqhoboshele khulu izimvo zopolitiko Harrer, sinokukhuthazwa kuphela ubenokuqina nenkalipho yale yedwa wodumo umhambi.

kwiminyaka yokuqala

Wazalwa ngo-1912 kwidolophu encinane Austrian Obergossene, kusapho umqeshwa yeposi Yozefa Harrera kunye nomfazi wakhe Johanna. Ngowe-1927 bafudukela Graz, apho uHeinrich Harrer waphumelela kwisikolo omkhulu waza wangena kweyona University of Karl Franz. Ukususela ngowe-1933 ukuya 1938 wafunda iJografi kunye nemfundo ezizizakhiwo efanayo ixesha uxakeke ngamandla iintaba kunye Ukuskiya.

Yena umviwa kwi inxaxheba kwimiDlalo Winter Olympic 1936, eyayibanjelwe eJamani. Kodwa Austria babamba nto kuba ninabakhaphi chargeability kwi Ukuskiya wasezintabeni ukuya professionals thintelo fown kwabo kumathambeka Olimpiki. Ngowe-1937, uHeinrich Harrer waphumelela ukhuphiswano longele, kufakwa kwiprogram ye-World Student Games, kodwa ube uthando lokwenene ngokunyuka ngayo.

North Face of the Eiger

Ekupheleni kwale khosi eyunivesithi ngenxa Harrer waba ntaba eziliqela onyuka nqanaba liphezulu ngobunzima. Ngowe-1938, kunye nomhlobo wakhe countryman uFritz Kasparek, uHeinrich Harrer uza kuloyiso edume "Wall of Death" - ngasentla ubuso omkhulu negranite yephiramidi ukuphakama kuyimitha 3970, leyo wayizalela igama Eiger kwi zaseSwitzerland.

Olu donga lwahlala unclimbed ixesha elide, nangona iinzame eziliqela ibango inqwaba yabantu. Routes eyenziwe kwi Eiger ubuso ngasentla, isakhiwo enzima zejoloji yemozulu phezulu kunye nokusingqongileyo kule ndawo. Umphezulu Walungisa zekhephu ezininzi, phantse sigqunywa ngokupheleleyo ngumkhenkce kwaye umlinganiselo ithambeka degrees 75, kwaye kwezinye iindawo kunye icala elibi.

Le rhoqo aphezulu rockfalls zekhephu, imozulu etshintsha ngokukhawuleza wenza enyukayo phezu kobuso langasentla Eiger esiyingozi. Ngenxa yoko, abasemagunyeni livalwe ngokomthetho ithambeka for climbers kunye nabancedi intaba wala ukuhlangula abo baye ngokwabo kule ndlela.

July 24, 1938

Kakade phezu eludongeni Austrians Kasparek kunye Harrer e inyanda kunye climbers ezimbini isiJamani - Anderle Hekmayerom kunye Ludwig Vorgom ukuba wathabatha izixhobo oluthembekileyo ngakumbi sicatshulwa ngumkhenkce komhlaba. Lilinge elidityanelweyo ukuba anyuke nempumelelo, nangona ezinye ukuphazamiseka xa kusindiswa inshorensi kuphela, yaye esekungcungcuthekeni udaka, ukusuka apho kugcinwa izixhobo oluthembekileyo kuphela, umonde nokuzingisa. Heinrich Harrer, ogama iincwadi ngokuqhelekileyo ukuchaza matutu zayo ezahlukeneyo, wathi kamva ngesi siganeko kwi documentary inoveli "I-White Spider" (1959).

Impumelelo yeqela Austria-German of climbers eyenzeka kwiinyanga nje ezintathu emva kokuba nokudliwa Austria yi ku Germany, ze yamaNazi wenza uphawu msulwa nkqubo ndlongondlongo yobuFasi. Harrer kunye nezinye angaboyisi Eiger ifumene amawonga eliqela amabhaso, kwakunye kwabaphulaphuli lukaHitler kunye nezinye iinkokheli zamaNazi.

Hambo ukuze malayas

Yanyukela isicelo kwezemidlalo, nto leyo zamaNazi eJamani, wanikwa ingqalelo ekhethekileyo. Lokoyisa eziphezulu ezintsha watyhutyha iindlela unexplored ubuxoki lukaHitler wabona ukubaluleka lokomfuziselo oluzayo ukubusa umhlaba of the Nation Aryan. Nale ganging yokutshintsha uHitler kunye neemfundiso eyimfihlakalo ka Shambhala - lizwe edume umiwe supermen, abanokwazi ezenza Akanakoyiswa yaye onke.

Ngokutsho legend, le weemonki laliphakathi phakathi iincopho zeHimalaya, mhlawumbi e eTibet - mhlaba umangalisayo, nelawula ukuba ukufunda ngolwasemzini, yaye malunga apho kwakungekho ulwazi ngqo kwi baseYurophu. Ngoko ke, uyazi matutu eziliqela climbers German alungelelaniselwe sokuhlola indawo. Akwaziwa ukuba injongo yaba ekhangela bangafi Shambhala zeHimalaya hambo ngo-1939, inxalenye yayo yaqukwa Harrer, kodwa lowo ngayo bathetha abaphandi, sichulumancile ngenxa yokuba umhambi odumileyo, ifihlwe elide elidlulileyo yakhe lwamaNazi.

Exploration indlela ku Nanga Parbat

Uhambo olude, iyinto eyazala ncwadi idumileyo yabo ababhala Heinrich Harrer - "iminyaka esixhenxe Tibet", yayijonge ukulungiselela kuloyiso omnye kwiincopho zeHimalaya - an uluhlu lwe Nanga Parbat, nto leyo ifumaneka kumntla-malayas, kwindawo British ngoko ikoloni - India.

Emva ngendlela entsha phezulu ubekwa kwindawo yesithathu inani abonzakeleyo ababezama aloyisa, le climbers waseJamani encotsheni ukuwa 1939 ezibe Karachi, belindele ukuba inqanawa ukubuyela eYurophu wafunyanwa. Le nqanawa wavalelwa. Kwaye nje emva kokuba kaSeptemba 1 - komhla wokuqalisa kweMfazwe Yehlabathi II nasemva ungeno kwi UK yakhe - Septemba 3 - ukuba kwintsimi kotshaba babanjwa.

ukubaleka ngempumelelo

Ukuzama ukubaleka - abangatshatanga kunye namaqela - eNamandla Austria awenzileyo ukususela ekuqaleni yamabanjwa yakhe. Emva kokuba iqela labo waba inkambi ndivalelwe, ibekwe eentaba malayas, kuba Harrer waba indlela yokubaleka ecacileyo - ngokusebenzisa abapasileyo entabeni Tibet. Movement kummandla weentaba ehlabathini, ukuze imbaleki abaqeqeshwe - kwakungelula ukuba ifuna ukulungiswa kakhulu, kangangokuba wayeza Harrer ayikho umzamo wokuqala.

Indlela kwi eminqubeni, apho umthetho a amaNgesi oluphucukileyo ngokucacileyo ezahlukeneyo gqitha kwezo odolo ukuba amaJamani wenza ibanjwa lemfazwe eMpuma Front. Ngoko ke, Harrer kunye nabahlobo bakhe ithuba elihle ukulungiselela ukusithela ngokupheleleyo. Kodwa ke, lasinga emdeni Indiya kunye Tibet alifikeleli thina sonke - abaninzi bakhetha ukuba sibuyele enkampini. E Lhasa - capital Tibet kaThixo - kunye Harrer kuphela uPetros Aufschnaiter, elithanda abakhankanywe ngobomi, eyabhalwa Heinrich Harrer.

"Iminyaka 7 Tibet"

Iincwadi ezenziwe Austria umhambi edumileyo, iqulathe ulwazi oluninzi malunga lizwe, apho ukufikelela basemzini eyalelweyo ngumthetho. Kwakukho kwingqikelelo enye izilumko, njengako apho Tibet kulahlekileyo ukuzimela yayo emva kokuba khona apho kuya kubakho abasemzini. Ngoko ke, ekuqaleni Harrer kunye nomhlobo wakhe waziva yobutshaba onke eTibet - nabalusi ezilula kunye namagosa amanene.

Kuye kwatshintsha ngeendlela ezininzi ngenxa yeenguqu ngokwabo abalinganiswa abaphambili - ngenkankulu tyuu phezu ezityhutyhayo eziphakamileyo, ukudibana ngendlela engaqhelekanga yokuphila eTibet, nolwazi unqulo lwabo esalela ubundlobongela obujoliswe nasiphi na isidalwa ephilileyo, ziye zabashiya beluthuthu na umphefumlo womntu, nokuba ekuqaleni bahlukana wamazwi imibono lwamaNazi.

Nane UDalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - lwalo eziphilayo Buddha, inkokeli yokomoya Tibet, inkwenkwana benelungelo ofuna ukufunda okungakumbi ngalo ihlabathi, ibekwe amawaka eekhilomitha ukusuka kwilizwe lakowabo - omnye iqhawe le ncwadi. Heinrich Harrer kunye UDalai Lama, waba sazane ngo-1940, inkxaso ukusungulwa Harrer de kwasa ekufeni kwakhe ngowe-2006, ndizibhokoxa nempembelelo efanayo ngalinye enye olomeleleyo. Ivela Austria, ngaphezulu kwama-26 eminyaka, UDalai Lama uye wafunda lukhulu malunga ngezithethe zaseYurophu, impumelelo modernity lwenzululwazi nobugcisa.

Oku kuye kwakhokelela ekubeni izityholo ze Tibetan AmaBhuda kumagunya Chinese, ebuhlungu efanelekileyo yombuzo Tibet inkululeko, ubudlelwane kunye amaNazi. Kwelinye icala, igunya elikhulu kweyeDalai Lama kwezopolitiko ehlabathini, leyo, nangona ukuzibophelela imfundiso zamandulo zonqulo, umntu alohlukaniswa impucuko yanamhlanje, nayo asuka kweli wobudlelane abantu ababini abatsha (ingakumbi ukugweba yi-bhanya-1994), intsimbi abahlobo bokwenene.

Ngokusekelwe kwezi ziganeko waza wadala kunazo yakhe Heinrich Harrer. "Iminyaka esixhenxe Tibet" kunye wadubula-incwadi umboniso lwakhe Brad Pitt kwi indima ekhokelayo - Yaduma igama lakhe kulo lonke ihlabathi. Nangona emva kokubuya kwakhe kwilizwe lakhe ngowe-1950, wenza okuninzi ukwenyuka uhambo ngokwezelizwe, inxaxheba kwimisebenzi eyahlukeneyo yezentlalo, uye wapapasha iincwadi ezingaphezu kwama-20. Harrer Kudla ngokuthiwa ukuba amaphepha aqaqambe yonke yobomi bakhe, ukuze ekubeni eTibet ezifakwe ngonaphakade entliziyweni yakhe.